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Survival Basics – Part 3: Fire Starting

"The fire is the main comfort of the camp, whether in summer or winter and is about as ample at one season as at another. It is as well for cheerfulness as for warmth and dryness." — Henry David Thoreau

In part 1 we looked at the rule of 3's and how it helped determine our priorities in a survival situation. Although during the warmer months we may need shelter to get out of the sun, we don't necessarily need anything additional to keep us warm. This changes drastically when temperatures begin to drop in the fall through spring and at altitude (mountains). We might also want fire to boil water, cook food, provide cheer or signal would be rescuers.

To get a fire going we're going to need all three elements of the fire triangle – heat, oxygen and fuel. A method of creating a spark will provide the heat, mother nature will provide the oxygen and we need to find fuel. Our initial fuel source needs to preferably be small, light and easily combustible (Cattail fluff, grass, pine needles, tree bark shavings, char cloth). Once the fire is going we can slowly add bigger and bigger "fuel blocks" until we have a satisfactory and long lasting fire.

Fire starters can be broken into two categories, igniters and accelerants. An igniter provides the initial flame while the accelerant supports the flame with a boost.

Starters

There are many types of igniters which can be further broken down into three groups - primitive, purchased and improvised.

Primitive – In this group are some of the oldest forms of fire starters, the hand drill and the bow drill. Both methods use heat generated by friction to cause combustion. Both techniques require mainly natural resources but can be difficult to master and energy intensive particularly in wet environments. The hand drill consists of two parts, the spindle and the hearth board.

The hearth board is held in place with a foot or knee while the vertical spindle is rotated by "rubbing the hands together". The rotation causes friction which produces heat and creates the ember you will use to light your fire.

The bow drill has additional components (hand piece, bow).

The spindle is placed vertically onto the hearth board as before and the string of the bow is wrapped around it one or two turns. The spindle is held upright by applying gentle pressure with the hand piece while at the same time working the bow backwards and forwards. This rotates the spindle causing friction etc.

In both instances a notch should be cut into the hearth board to allow the wood dust to collect and form an ember. The hearth board should not be too thick or it will impede the creation of your ember. Keep your kindling close by so you can easily transfer your ember o it when ready.

Purchased – This group includes matches, waterproof and windproof matches, a variety of lighter types, Ferro-rod strikers (flint and steel), magnifying glass and fire piston. Ordinary matches and lighters are super easy and self-explanatory. Waterproof and windproof matches are not susceptible to moisture and cannot easily be extinguished by the wind and are thus more reliable than ordinary matches.

Flint and steel is available as a two-piece unit (a piece of flint and an oval shaped piece of steel (similar to a knuckle bow)),

a tubular flint with a handle and separate striker,

a tubular flint with a handle housing a self-contained striker.

The magnifying glass works as expected but the fire piston is a little different but effective non the less. It consists of two tubes, one fitted tightly within the other. Your combustible material is placed at the base of the tube and you press one tube down inside the other like a plunger. This causes the air to rapidly heat up causing combustion.

Improvised – This group consists of items that can be repurposed to assist in our survival situation. This group is extensive so I'll mention just a few items. Glasses lens, a bottle with transparent fluid in it, the polished base of an aluminum can are all useable like a magnifying glass. A mirror can also be used like a magnifying glass in addition to signaling to rescuers. A battery can be used to ignite steel wool.

Accelerants

There are a number of different types of accelerants that can essentially be corralled into two groups – primitive and homemade.

Primitive – These are often found in trees in the form of resins or pitch. Look for areas of damage to the tree. You will find it weeping sap which hardens forming chunks. These chunks can require prolonged exposure to ignite but, once lit, burn for quite some time (similar to a modern firelighter). Fatwood is the name given to wood that is "saturated" with resins. When a tree dies the flammable resins in its sap settles near the base of the tree. Digging in to an old tree stump is where you will find a usable source. Fatwood burns for a lot longer than regular wood.

Homemade – Most of the common versions are a combination of a waxy substance and a combustible material. The waxy substance ensures that the fibers of the combustible material stay dry. Here are some examples

1. Cotton balls impregnated with petroleum jelly

2. Dryer lint coated in candle wax

3. Medical gauze soaked in hand sanitizer

4. Twine coated in wax and inserted into a brass hose connector (like a lantern wick)

Other alternatives are the potato chips you have in your pocket; they burn well depending on how hungry you are! The powder from one of those rounds of ammunition you're carrying can be used to help start a fire in a pinch. Pull the bullet using the pliers on your multi tool and you're in business.

A purchasable item that falls into both categories is the magnesium fire starter. It's a magnesium oblong with a built in flint and attached striker. Shave flakes of magnesium into a tiny pile and use the flint and steel to ignite an intense flame.

The ability to start a fire is a vital skill essential to survival. Even if not needed for warmth or to dry clothing, it's necessary for purifying water and cooking food. It also serves as an excellent morale booster – especially when cold and wet. Having two or three fire starting methods at your disposal will save you a lot of time and energy particularly in a hostile climate.


"To those who do not know the world is on fire, I have nothing to say." — Bertolt Brecht
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